Nicky's Rag Tales

Christopher Bailey

I found myself in Trinity College today at a Philosophical Society meeting where students and a few of us from the world of fashion gathered to hear Irish Times Fashion editor Deirdre Mc Quillan in a question and answer session with Burberry Creative Director Christopher Bailey. What followed was a hugely interesting and enlightening hour where a very relaxed and gentle mannered Mr Bailey gave us some insight into the world of Burberry. That iconic British Brand which is now truly global. due in most part to the direction that Christopher Bailey has taken it since taking up the position in May 2001.

He is responsible for the design of all the collections and product lines as well as all the retail stores. Basically everything that we see as Burberry. That sounds pretty daunting to me but CB seems to take it in his stride and explained that Burberry is 150 years old with a story to tell and it’s that story that he sees as being most interesting. He said that his roll was like ‘holding the key to a beautiful castle’. Explaining that he always wants to move forward and at the same time lives very much in the moment. He doesn’t believe in personal planning yet said he works with teams of people and within these teams rigid planning is key.

Coming as he explained from a working class Yorkshire background with no aspirations to be in the world of fashion but always with an appreciation of the aesthetic. A lover of buildings, art and geology he was headhunted by Donna Karan when she visited his art college and offered him a job on completion of his degree. Of Donna Karan he said she was an amazing person to work with. He worked with DK as womenswear designer from 1994-1996. Tom Ford who at that time wasn’t well known approached him and impressed him and he moved to Senior Womenswear designer at Gucci (where ‘I put G’s on everything!)

When asked by Deirdre Mc Quillan whether he though Britishness sells he answered ‘ I think you have to be careful it doesn’t become cliche’ Burberry is divided into three global areas, Europe, Asia and the rest of the world. The global and inclusive aspect of the company was a theme that CB kept coming back to. He said ‘ I want it to be young, of the moment and to appeal to different types of people. When you are global your imagery has to talk to every culture and to all people’.

On the subject of the use of celebrities he talked very passionately about building respectful relationships and said ‘I love that collaberation’. ‘I’m working with Emma Watson, she is very bright, she loves fashion and she is beautiful, she’s a perfect example’. I asked about the recent picture of Saoirse Ronan in Burberry at a very recent movie premiere and whether he is working with her to which he answered an emphatic yes.

On the new digital world Christopher Bailey had plenty to say,’ right now we are a very dynamic organisation and very flexible. Digital is the right way now and we can do it.’ Responsible for the ‘Art of The Trench’ and embracing the new digital age and social media CB said that people were sending in stories and pictures and ‘ we want to develop communities’. Burberry isn’t all about commerce and selling it’s about a heritage, a story and much more than a fashion business.

When asked by DMq about the changing face of retailing and which way he thought it was going he answered that there isn’t one formula. The department stores that are doing it right are moving as quickly as they can but, ‘it is very difficult for the big players’ ‘ On line shopping is going to take over the world’. There still has to be speciality stores and the Burberry shops are central but that’s why it’s so important to build emotive websites.

On fakes and copies CB differentiated the two very clearly. Fakes are just that and wrong but high street stores such as Top Shop who copy design but give something back he had praise for. He mentioned his respect for Philip Green and especially his backing of young designers.

Quality is a very important part of the Burberry ethos with cashmere Burberry scarves still being produced in Scotland. On ethical issues CB said that it wasn’t always simple but that for example in the new Burberry headquarters no one has a waste basket under their desk and has to take waste to be recycled (he chuckled that he was a bit of a dictator) and that there were two printers on each large floor necessitating people to go to the printer. 32 tons of paper had been saved by his refusal to print brochures and leaflets and where fur is used (sparingly) animal welfare is of utmost importance

I left Trinity on a high, feeling that if I was young and enthusiastic looking to a career in the world of Fashion I would be happy to take a job emptying those bins for Burberry in the hopes that I might get noticed by Christopher Bailey and move slowly up a wonderfully energising and dynamic career ladder.

Where are all the Jeans Gone by nickysragtales featuring All Saints

Where has all the Denim gone? There was a time when you couldn’t open a fashion magazine without the latest Denim must have new company being touted. Prices for the jeans were getting out of hand and while we used to be prepared to pay up to 100 euro for a really good pair we saw Jeans at 350 euro becoming the so called norm. The continual hunt for that perfectly fitting pair of jeans had us all struggling in changing rooms and lying on the floor tearing the skin off our fingers trying to prize up the zipper. And just when we found the perfect pair we were told the shape they were in was so out of fashion.

Well this season it’s all gone quiet on the denim front. Leggings have got more sophisticated and enter the new jeggings (stretch denim leggings). But the biggest new change is the re-entry of the trouser. The new tomboy look is here and wearing your boyfriends tweed jacket with a pair of trousers in several different shapes (think pleated waist bands and tapered legs or wide leg) is very on- trend. The latest and most surprising entry into this category is the emergence of the track suit trouser. Gathered at the waist and tapered at the ankle, fashion writer Sarah Harris ( no relation) writes in Decembers issue of Vogue magazine and extols the virtues of this version of the comfy trouser. Worn with a dash of luxury on top. Think cashmere and boyfriend blazer and always with high heels to avoid the shlumperdik look. This follows the harem pant (which has been seen on catwalks but never really taken off on the street) and wins hands down.

The shape and fabric in this look has to be spot on and so far the best can be seen from Whistles, Karen Walker, Alexander Wang, Rag and Bone and American Apparel. This is a look that is sure to be a hit but it will need to be worn with care and whether it will always look good is open for debate. Watch this space on tracky bottoms!. So does this signal the end of denim jeans? I’m pretty sure it doesn’t, they’re just having some down time for now.

This has been rather a thin week as far as Fashion Tales are concerned. That’s good as it enables us all to concentrate on the really important things in life like a lot of the West of Ireland under water and little help coming from Government. Thank goodness for neighbourly spirit and kindness then. Also we’ve had time to consider the findings of the ‘Murky Report’ (Murphy report) on the Catholic Church’s collusion and cover up in the whole sordid Child Abuse scandal that has be-devilled this country for eons. The Sacrificial lamb takes on a whole new meaning in Ireland.

As for me I spent yesterday in Croke Park thanking God for the Irish Rugby team while wrapped up in my mothers fur coat (sorry all you anti-real fur people out there) which kept me warm while I cheered on the Irish team to victory. I tweeted a few times from the match but because I had to take off my gloves to hit the key board on my iphone I gave up. I’m going to have to buy a pair of gloves that have the index finger and thumb missing especially for use with the Iphone on etretouchy!

Interesting that one Stephano Gabbana (other half Dolce) has embraced Twitter World lately. Check out his hilarious tweets (for their banality ) in this Guardian Newspaper Article.

Saoirse Ronan with Prince Charles at the Premier of 'The Lovely Bones'

The film the ‘The Lovely Bones’ premiered in London last week. Saoirse Ronan who plays the main part wore this beautiful foggy grey Burberry dress. The film already has had mixed reviews and there is discussion around the film departing somewhat from the book. Perhaps film and literature are two separate genres and should be seen individually, but I haven’t seen the film yet so can’t comment.

Next week I start the hunt for interesting fashionable gifts, will be meeting Burberry’s Creative director and going to a Fashion Bloggers Christmas party. Have a good week ahead.

Who was who said ‘Fashion is in the air, it is all around us’? I think it was Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel but whoever said it was absolutely right. Fashion isn’t just what we wear. It’s part of our day to day lives. I’ve had a very fashionable week this past week. Spending time in lots of great shops as part of my work. I mooched around Brown Thomas, got lost in Arnotts (as I always do) and found some brilliantly interesting items and not all of them clothes.

I can still smell the leather gloves and bags in Paula Rowan’s shop and Louise Kennedy’s house/store on Merrion Square bowled me over. But the item I’ve picked for my ‘Fashion fix of the Week’ is from another era. It has that wonderful retro look that brings back so many memories and it looks exactly the same as it always has. It’s edible too though I think just looking at it will suffice for now. I bought it in Fallon & Byrne, an impulse ‘must have’ buy that transported me back to the Classic Cinema in Terenure on a Saturday afternoon oh so many years ago. Forget lipstick for that fashion fix, this week what worked for me was…….. Read more

Louise Kennedy is probably one of Ireland’s best known designers. Today I spent the afternoon at her home and flagship store here in Dublin. Situated in a beautiful Georgian House on one of Dublin’s most famous squares it oozes style, elegance and luxury. For the first time this year I felt that warm and wonderful Christmas feeling. Perhaps it was the Christmas tree or the scent of mulled wine and mince pies that were too too tempting. But perhaps it was the most gorgeous gifts displayed in the most beautifully relaxed atmosphere. No awful piped music or tacky Christmas decorations here. Number 56Merrion Square is also Louise Kennedy’s home and the collections here which include her crystal and home- wares plus accessories and clothing span three floors. Everything here has been chosen with great care and displayed accordingly. I was looking for gifts and so with my trusty camera in hand took some photographs of items and clothes that I would like to buy or have bought for me. I suggest that if you are not already a fan and loyal customer of Louise Kennedy (and they include, Yasmin Le Bon, Meryl Streep and Anjelica Huston) then you should definitely knock on the door and enter this wonderland. Read more

The minute you enter Paula Rowan’s shop in the Westbury Mall you are hit by that beautiful smell of good quality leather and you could be forgiven if for a moment you thought you were in Italy.

I absolutely love leather and here I was in Leather heaven. When the designer Richard Lewis walked in and asked if he could use Paula’s gloves for his latest collection then you know you have found something really special.

Paula is not interested in fashion fads but the gloves and bags here certainly tick all the boxes for me. The most wonderful thing is the myriad of choice. For both Women and Men, gloves in the softest leather, lined or unlined, with detail or plain, wrist or elbow length and in every colour under the sun. Paula has recently launched her own collection of gloves, designed by Paula and made in Italy and with her new website just launched these can be bought either in store or online. Priced from 50-160 euro these are gloves that you really will wear again and again and they make the perfect present for anyone.

With the ‘It’ bag well and truly over the bags in this shop are the type that will just get better with age. No labels apparent here. Just fabulous shapes and sizes. From laptop bags to slouch, clutch and shoulder, take your pick. With no compromise on quality these are investment pieces.

Here are just a small selection of some of the bags and gloves that I loved.

Paula Rowan

Snake clutch and stone colour leather gloves

Elbow length contrasting suede Gloves

Forever Bag

Patent Lap Top Bag

Purple leather Clutch bag and Gloves

Fab Clutches

In The Window

Paula Rowan, 31 Westbury Mall Dublin 2. T. +353 (0) 1 6746662

www.glovesbypaularowan.ie

paula@glovesbypaularowan.ie

Fashion and Jewellery go hand in hand and nothing transforms an outfit from plain ordinary to stunning like the right statement piece. Chosen with care and not necessarily by spending a fortune you can make all the difference to an outfit. There is such great choice in the shops right now so here are a few tips on how to avoid the pitfalls.

BRACELETS

Cuffs make a great big bold statement and worn with slim fitting long sleeves can look great.

Classic bangles are another must have. They can be bought cheaply so stack them high

RINGS

Apart from the obvious a great fashion ring is a good buy but it should be fun and not pretending to be a 40 carat cocktail bling ring!

NECKLACES

Choose your neck piece based on the neckline of the garment you are wearing. The higher the necklines work best with longer length chains. Plunging necklines are best with 17-19″.

Strapless dresses work best with a choker or princess style necklace. Halter and one shoulder dresses need only drop earrings to show them off.

Above all avoid matching sets, too old fashioned and predictable.

Rebecca Davis has a fabulous collection of fashion and statement jewellery in her shop in the Westbury Mall in Dublin and also online. Chosen from the best collections from around the world Rebecca has an eye for what works and gives really great advise to her customers.

Rebecca Davis, Unit 27 Westbury Mall Dublin

Read more

Take one Top by nickysragtales featuring Issa

I’ve been looking for tops and blouses lately. Not easy to find but so versatile and a great buy when you do. I found this one and I like the soft forgiving draping down the front that needs little accessorising. I chose it in a good colour and teal is bang on trend for the season and suits most skin tones. It livens up pale skins and looks great beside darker tones. You could call it a top for all occasions and the sort that owes us nothing at the end of a Winter season.

On Friday I went to Pichet, the new restaurant on the block in Dublin and said I’d report back. I can’t fault the food, it was tasty, beautifully presented and very well priced. Just a little disconcerting was the fact that we booked a table for eight people and some of them (being Irish and typical) were a bit late. Those of us who were there on time were rushed into ordering and rushed is how I would describe the whole experience. We were moved off the table to the smoking terrace but unfortunately the one heater that was working was pretty meek and mild and the others didn’t work. Half an hour later the table we had vacated was still empty. Pichet need to realise that there are a group of late Friday lunchers in Dublin looking for better value than their usual haunts where they can sit for hours, eat well and drink lots of wine. The food, ambiance and prices scored very highly, a pity about the ‘Speedy Gonzales’ factor.

1 Jimmy Choo is in the news again in a hard hitting piece on Times Online which poses the questions that every luxury brand faces having produced a much cheaper line. Will Jimmy Choo continue to hold it’s luxury status?

2 Fashion Bloggers were Tweeting and Blogging all week about an article posted on Blackbookmag.com ‘The Fight of the Fashion Bloggers’ Bloggers are becoming more and more important as the print media struggles to maintain the high ground. Fashion Blogging started in the States a couple of years ago as a completely unique comment on the fashion world by complete outsiders. Only talent necessary was a love of fashion. Increasingly some of the bloggers are seen as make or break trend analysts with huge followings. Several of them now sitting beside Miss Wintour ramp side at the catwalk shows during Fashion Week. I don’t make any secret of the fact that I have a long background in the Industry but I write this blog with total freedom to say what I like without payment of any kind. Mind you I wouldn’t be averse in the future to adding a couple of advertisements on the site but I would have to like the product.

3 Good News for all of us fans of the 50′s. Actress and Style Icon Grace Kelly’s clothes go on exhibition from next April at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Famous for her roles in films ‘Rear Window’, ‘Dial M For Murder’,'To Catch A Thief’ and ‘High Society’ and then for marrying prince Ranier of Monaco. Princess Grace as she became, was glamorous and beautifully stylish in that slightly aloof , cool way. Controversy and rumours of affairs surrounded her and upon hearing the news that she was to marry the Prince Alfred Hitchcock ( whose movies she starred in ) quipped that he ‘was very happy that Grace had found herself such a good part’!

Her life ended in tragedy when she was killed in a car accident in 1982. I look forward to visiting the V&A in the spring to take a look for myself.

Grace Kelly with Bing and Frank in 'High Society'

With James Stewart in Hitchcocks 'Rear Window'

4 A new Fashion Website launched last week Tobi.com where if you have a webcam you can ‘virtually’ try on any dress and if you choose share it on Facebook. I took a look but I’ll save my opinion on it till later.

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Forgiving Draping by nickysragtales featuring Balenciaga dresses

Going through the rails this season sees a shift towards a softer look. For the past few seasons which started with the Galaxy Dress from Roland Mouret we saw the birth of a very strong Body Conscious look. The bandage style permeated down to all the high street stores and we all wore huge amounts of pull you in underwear. What we see on the rails now is not that obvious at first glance as it often looks like half a wrapped up curtain and no amount of imagination can transform you to goddess while looking at it.
Draping, cowl necks and soft ripples along one side of a dress or skirt to full on draping is now in the high street. The trend started with Balenciaga (the black dress above is an example). Hanger appeal it doesn’t have but it can be very forgiving on the body, hiding a multitude of sins.

This look needs trying on so don’t dismiss the odd looking dresses or skirts on the rails. Don’t throw out the good underwear either. Yummie Tummie does a really great slip dress which is hugely comfortable and does a great smoothing job and you don’t feel like an Egyptian ‘mummy’.

I’m off for a late lunch in Pichet on Trinity Street so I’ll tell you what that was like later. In the meantime have a great (hopefully dry!) weekend.