Nicky's Rag Tales

1. After weeks of speculation highly successful on-line retailer Net-a-Porter has confirmed that they have been acquired by one of the worlds most succesful luxury goods groups Richemont. A natural buyout partner who already owned a significant share holding of Net-a-Porter and who have worked well with them. This news can only mean more success for what is undoubtedly the best fashion retailer who has succeeded in tapping into the on-line fashion retailing worldwide market.

2. Rock and Republic have filed for Chapter 11 protection. This essentially means they are in deep financial crisis and have applied to the courts for protection. This will mean much needed time for the company to fight for their survival and may give them time to re adjust enough in order to save them. It may also mean the begining of the end.

3. Ever wondered how to wear socks and or stay ups? Here is a lovely photograph of Eva Herzigova who shows that it’s possible to do both!

4. Last year we had the film ‘Coco Before Chanel’ and this year we have another opportunity to see another film about Chanel. This film which appeared at Cannes to much acclaim charts the probable (though not confirmed) affair between two greats, composer Ivor Stravinsky and Coco Chanel. The film is due to go on limited release in Europe in June. Featuring actor Mads Mikkelsen and Anna Mouglalis and Directed by Jan Kounen it explores the true story of Igor Stravinsky, his wife and children, taking up residence in Chanel’s home. The difficulty this obviously posed for Stravinsky’s wife and the probable affair between two highly charged greats. I couldn’t find a clip with subtitles but here is a taste of what’s to come……..

5. And last but not least my Weekly Blog Award this week goes to Coco’s Tea Party It’s one of the blogs I go back again and again to, so it must have something I like. Because I’m deeply entrenched in the business of fashion I love the fresh and passionate blogs that are fueled by youth and enthusiasm. Coco’s Tea Party manages to do all of the above and more.

Kelly Cutrone, owner of Fashion Pr Company in NY Peoples Revolution has recently published a book ‘If you have to cry go outside: and other things your mother didn’t tell you‘ Available from Amazon and heading up on the NY Times best sellers list it’s a book on my ‘interested to read’ list. The reviews have all been positive but then in this business you don’t always get an unbiased view. It’s often a matter of ‘I’ll scratch your back if you’ll scratch mine’. Kelly Cutrone is extremely successful at what she does. She has a no nonsense approach and is known for her often brutal straight talking. On her client list at the moment among others are Longchamp, Vivienne Westwood and Sass and Bide.

It’s a good idea to teach young women that the Fashion world is no bed of roses. That it is often tough and often not at all glamorous. That the nearer to the top you get the more cynical you can become. As someone who has been reduced to tears by( so called) successful people (and yes, I did go out and cry on my own) I question whether the model that says you have to be rude beyond belief in order to succeed is either valid or desirable. I want my daughters to have inner strength, to succeed in the world whether it be fashion or whatever they choose. But above all I hope I’ve taught them one lesson and that is to treat people with respect.

I will buy Ms Cutrones book and I will read it with an open mind. If her message is one that empowers women who wish to succeed in the Business of Fashion to be strong yet fair, to work hard with 100% commitment then I’m all for that. But if the message is that I need to be a bitch to succeed then sorry folks, count me out.

Here is an Interview with Kelly Cutrone about her book

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This weeks news comes from the V&A Museum in London. Not only do they have a permanent Fashion Jewellery and Accessories exhibition running which is well worth a visit but there are two temporary shows worthy of mention. The first is ‘Quilts’ running from 20th March to July 4th . Amongst amazing English quilts there is one on loan from the National gallery of Australia called the ‘Rajah’ quilt after the convict ship it was made on by the women on board in 1841. Always a lover of quilts as heritage and historical memory pieces of beauty and each with it’s own story I will be heading to the V& A when I’m in London next and I’m particularly looking forward to Tracy Emin’s bed complete with quilt in situ.

Tracy Emin 'To meet my past'

The Exhibition that I can’t wait for is of course Grace Kelly ‘Style Icon’ which is running from 17th April-26th September.

For more detailed information on the Grace Kelly Exhibition click here to a previous post where I blogged about this upcoming event.

1. Alexander Mc Queens death took place with his collection 80% completed. Of course the final 20% is a huge part of the design process but SarahBurton who worked alongside Mc Queen completed the pieces which were shown in a sombre and fitting tribute in Milan. His vision called ‘The Art of the Dark Ages’. It’s worth taking a look at the video for a view of just how talented this designer was. Gucci who owns the Alexander Mc Queen label have not made a decision yet as to just what the future holds. A poisoned chalice I think for any designer who takes up the mantle (presuming there is one) with Gareth Pugh’s name being mentioned in dispatches as a likely candidate for the title.

The Images of these stunning pieces speak for themselves and show just what a loss this genius of design was.

2. Madonna is launching ‘Material Girl’ ( it couldn’t be called anything else now could it) in August in Macys USA. The clothes are for teenage girls and her ‘Inspiration’ is her daughter Lourdes. Madonna’s collaboration with H&M a couple of years ago was a disaster and the teen market is a notoriously difficult one to tackle so it’s a wait and see on this one. You’ve got to hand it to Madonna for her tenacity at least.

Madonna and Daughter Lourdes

3. Patricia Field, stylist on ‘Sex and the City’ and ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ and a celebrity in her own right was interviewed on the walk way into the Oscars last week. I particularly liked this quote from her on the night ‘Style is, you know who you are and you show it’

4. Who knows what a Zentai suit is? and who is wearing them? Apparently this isn’t new news per say but it certainly is to me. Skin tight suits that cover the whole body including the face. This is the sort of cat suit woman look that I assumed is good at a fancy dress party but isn’t the sort of thing to do your supermarket shopping in. I came across it on the net but it’s spreading across the world with websites devoted to wearers who apparently wear it every and anywhere zentaiproject.org A bit scary I’d say but who knows what catches on these days, fun or fetish. Take your pick.

5. And the winner is…… Brenda Flaherty who has won a fabulous pair of leather gloves.

1) I don’t usually post about brands that I have a business interest in but I’m going to make an exception today. Shape-wear is BIG business and Yummie Tummie is going from strength to strength helped along by stylist/designer Heather Thomson who is unique in the fashion world having come up with a completely new product. Brown Thomas in Dublin are planning a new Shape wear boutique with Yummie Tummie one of three anchor brands. New for fall and coming soon to Ireland are the simply amazing leggings which make not only your tummy but your legs slimmer! Turtle neck and long sleeve T-s with the ‘hold you in’ bit on the inside

2) Style Sample Magazine is a great online and print magazine for Fashion Bloggers. This is the place to read all the information you need if you are thinking about starting your own blog and a great resource for bloggers. You can contribute or just use it to check out what’s happening. Click here to read Issue 5. Issue 6 is available from next Tuesday. Style Sample Magazine

3) The Telegraph Newspapers hardest working and most knowledgeable Fashion Editor Hilary Alexander offers her Top 10 Fashion rules for the Oscars tonight and how to rise to the top in the Fashion Stakes. Hilary Alexander’s Top 10 Oscar Fashion Rules

4) Here is the Burberry Womenswear Catwalk show that was live streamed at London Fashion Week. Check out the fabulous jackets and new bags

1. Lily Allen has been saying for sometime that she is giving up her Music Career (or at least putting it on hold) to go into the Business of Fashion. Well, she’s launching her own Vintage label “Lucy In Disguise” at the Goodwood Fashion-meets Glam-Music Festival in the UK August 13-15. Lily said she would be sourcing the clothing with her sister Sarah Owen

The Festival, the first of it’s kind is the brain child of Wayne Hemingway and his wife, founders of label Red or Dead . The idea is to marry vintage with music from the 40′s 50′s 60′s and 70′s and 80′s. Simple a brilliant idea in an ideal location. To book tickets for this first of a kind festival click here… Goodwood

At the Launch of the Goodwood Festival and Lilly Allen's move into Fashion

2. Until the Mid 90′s Milan was the heart and centre of power of all the Fashion Capitals of the world. It seems as if this is certainly not true any more. Anna Wintour cut short the amount of time she spent there, more like a Fashion long week-end than a week! Read what the Guardian Newspaper reported about Milan during the week.

3 From Style.com read the report from the Burberry Prosum fantastic Catwalk show at London Fashion Week. I’m starting to save for one of these jackets right now.

Burberry Prosum Catwalk at LF 23rd February 2010

4. Closer to home, Paula Rowan had a fantastic launch of her Spring Summer Leather Shoes, Gloves and Bag collections last Thursday. Among the guests were Deirdre Mc Quillan, Richard Lewis, Eddie Shanahan and Barry Egan. There were over 200 people there who ate drank and were definitely merry… My interview with Paula will be uploaded in the next day or two so you can take a look for yourself.

Sonia Rykiels collection of knitwear in collaboration with H&M went on sale yesterday and has been a complete sellout so if you haven’t managed to bag one of the beauties from the range I’m afraid you’re out of luck. If you have bought it and anyone has the tunic dress in a medium and don’t want it please let me know???…..

2. Following on the tragedy of Alexander Mc Queens death it was announced last week that the planned Paris Catwalk show will go ahead for this season at least and is sure to be a hit. Bear in mind that catwalk collections aren’t finished until literally the last moment but it will have the stamp if not the finish of a brilliant designer. The future for the brand is less assured… watch this space.

3. London Fashion Week is in full swing. and tomorrow I’m there for Jaeger London at 3.30. On Tuesday the highlights for me are from Ashish (at 9.00 am) and Burberry Prosum (at 4. ‘Clock). Live streaming in high quality of all the shows can be found here Londonfashionweek. The quality is so good I’m seriously wondering why I’m flying at the crack of dawn tomorrow but all will become clear and I will report back exactly what I think.

4. Click here for a very interesting article from The New York Times on the wearisome return of military influences and the blurred influences which are now very much de rigueur as a source of fashion trends.

Tributes are pouring in following ‘Lee’ Alexander Mc Queens death last week. Sales of his trademark skull scarves and all things carrying his label are being bought up in stores across the world. On Friday his Press Office issued an urgent call to all Fashion Editors to immediately return any samples from the current or past seasons that were on loan (good luck with that one!).

McQueen Tributes outside the NY Store

New York Fashion Week is in full Swing showing Autumn/Winter 2010 here are images from Erin Wasson whose laid back simple street meets high end style vibe was really wearable and BCBG Max Azaria whose bold colour block collection looks like his best ever.

Tomorrow is the start of a great competition to win a pair of Italian leather gloves by Paula Rowan. All you have to do is register and leave a comment. The competition is open to anyone, anywhere and will run for three weeks.

1.Kate Moss designs a range of handbags for Longchamp. The collection will be sold in Dublin in Arnotts but take a look here at a video of the launch party last week and rare footage of Ms Moss saying a few words…. (or should that be, saying few words?)

2. Almost half of all the Fashion Magazines continue to experience double digit declines in sales, titles affected include Marie Claire, Vogue and W. With the growth in the Internet as a source of all things fashion coupled with a difficult economy the Magazines are going to have to work even harder to not only hold but grow their readership. Harpers Bazaar were accused of using some creative accounting techniques to hold up their reader count and it transpires they had added two other magazines in their stable into the mix in order to bump up the numbers

3. Fashion extremes were all a sparkle at last weeks 52nd Annual Grammy Awards with Lady Gaga taking all the fashion titles know to man. Three outfit changes from Armani Prive before the ceremony even started!!

Lady Gaga in No 1 of 3

4. Trouble brewed and spilled over onto Twitter and the Fashion Press when a group of Invited Bloggers previewed Ann Taylors Loft Summer collection. Twitter was all atweet with this highly trending topic for days with lots of negative comments about Bloggers V Editors which were vigorously rebutted. Read the article below which comes from WWD and leave a comment.

A new Loft blogging strategy has created some buzz, but not entirely the kind intended.

A group of bloggers was invited to preview Loft’s summer collection on Jan. 26 and each received a free gift card, ranging from $10 to $500. But Loft executives insist it wasn’t a ploy to insure favorable reviews about the collection, just to generate some blogging action.

“They could write whatever they want. Obviously, there’s freedom of speech,” said Gary Muto, president of Loft, which is a division of AnnTaylor Stores Corp. “These are independent bloggers, not affiliated [with] any publications. We invited them to come in and write something. We treat bloggers more as potential clients. We don’t believe bloggers to be the same as the editorial community. We don’t incentivize the press. We would never do that.”

A Jan. 19 article in The Los Angeles Times said, “From the sound of the sliding scale card values, the bigger and better your coverage, the greater your reward.”

But Muto disagreed, indicating: “These were preloaded gift cards dumped in a fish bowl,” meaning the dollar value of the cards was set and wouldn’t be altered based on a blog’s content.

After they left the preview, bloggers could find out the value of their cards by either shopping Loft or communicating with the company by sending the link to their blog posting. Once Loft received the link, it could e-mail back to bloggers what the card was worth and also read the blog.

Muto said 31 bloggers viewed the collection and each took a card. There were 50 cards in the fish bowl, he added.

A separate preview was held the same day for editors, but no gift cards were distributed there, Muto said.

“We will continue talking to bloggers,” Muto said. “We firmly believe that word of mouth is a great avenue to explore. Gone are the days of traditional forms of marketing and communication.”

Asked if Loft will continue to offer free gift cards to bloggers, Muto replied that for now, at least, “I can’t answer that question.”A new Loft blogging strategy has created some buzz, but not entirely the kind intended.

5. Suzy Menkes is one of the most Influential Fashion Editors in the World, as Head Fashion editor of the International Edition of The Herald Tribune she wields significant clout so listen to her being interviewed here on her view of Fashion Bloggers and their role in the world of Fashion

On Fashionblogs from Mary Scherpe on Vimeo.

A round up of my chosen news items from the fashion world from last week

Haiti is a major manufacturing centre for the clothing Industry and naturally a lot of the factories have been devastated by the earthquake. Lets not let Haiti slide to the back of our minds in the coming months and endeavour to keep helping in whatever way we can.

One of the clothing factories in Haiti last week

Tavi the 13 year old blogger was at the Couture Shows in Paris last week. A large gift from Milliner Stephen Jones adorned her head. Unfortunate for anyone sitting behind her, reminds me of weddings and the races where instead of seeing either bride or horse I had views of various adornments perched on top of elaborate head wear. Enough to make the blood boil. Read an Interesting article here from the Independent on the whole bally hoo. Paula Reed who is the Fashion Editor of Grazia magazine and a thoroughly nice (by all accounts) woman (this is from one who knows these things) was pretty annoyed about it.

Image courtesy of The Moment

It’s always interesting to take a peek into the making of an advert or campaign and this video is from Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer one.